A

B

Craft of Beauty

The Perfect One

BA Contributor

Maiken Staak

October Issue

Makeup By

Nele Pandis

Hair By

Nele Pandis

Photographed By

Maiken Staak

Stylist

Liis Plato

Other Credits

Model: Eliann (MJ Model Management) Retouching: Banana Retouch

Reviewed By Michelle Dacillo

Nele Pandis

Jacket KÄT

Turtle neck: vintage; sweatshirt: Adidas Original

Shirt: vintage, dress KÄT

Shirt: Gant, cap: Pamela Peepson (Poodlesclub)

Shirt: vintage, dress KÄT

Shirt: Gant, cap: Pamela Peepson (Poodlesclub)

Blouse: Studio August

'How To' by Nele Pandis

Contrasts in beauty have always fascinated me so bringing together perfect pale freckled skin and bleach blond hair with pops of color teetering on the fine line of taste come naturally to me. 

 

The model naturally has dark blonde Hair that was colored black and before I got to her hair she had bleached her hair at home to get a platinum blond look but that of course didn’t happen so I had to bleach the hair, color it and tone it with professional products do get the right blonde shade. I decided to use Goldwell products. I bleached her already home bleached hair with Silk Lift High Performance Lightener + 6% Conditioning Cream Developer on the scalp and 9% on the length of hair. After bleaching I colored it with Colorance semi-permanent haircolor using a mix of 10P, 10V, 10BS and 9NA to counteract the warm tones after the bleaching. After coloring I ended the process to get the perfect result with a Colorance express toner 10 Silver. For the editorial, I styled them with a straightener and set with Sebastian Re-Shaper Brushable Humidity Resistance Strong-Hold hairspray. For the wet look, I used natural water and took advantage of the hairspray already in the hair that gave it a bit of a sticky feel and made them easier to style.

 

The eyebrows are bleached with the same mix I used on the scalp and toned with the same toner. 

To let the freckles, shine in their full glory I decided not to use any foundation on the Skin. Instead I prepped and moisturized it with Bioderma Micellar water (Sensibo H20 Micelle Solution) and Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentre. I wanted the skin to look healthy and luminous and for that I used M.A.C. Strobe crème in pinklite and M.A.C. Mineralized Skinfinish on cheekbones, nose bridge, upper lip, chin and forehead. I prepped the lips with Elizabeth Arden 8-hour cream. 

In my world, you can always use products the way you need them in that moment rather then what they are supposed to be used for. For this editorial I didn’t want to use a lot of different colors but just few powerful ones and to give them a new dimension with gloss. For that I used M.A.C. lipglass (transparent) and mixed it with a lipstick or eyeshadow to get the result I needed and also opted to use it as it is to let the skin shine through. 

 

Black eye – to get the glossy black eye I mixed M.A.C. lipglass with M.A.C. eye shadow Carbon matte. The lips are lightly covered with M.A.C. lipglass. Hair is styled with water.

Blue lips – for the right shade of dark blue glossy lip I mixed M.A.C. lipglass with M.A.C. eyeshadow Atlantic Blue matte (Although it is a bright vibrant blue hue, the wet nature of the lip gloss gives it the depth and darkness I was going for. On the eyes, I used a light sheen of M.A.C. lipglass. 

Gloss – for the Glossy eyes and lips I used M.A.C. lipglass. I wanted it to emphasize the skin beneath the gloss and to intensify the natural colors in it.

Two-toned lips – on the outer edge of the lips I used a mix of M.A.C. lipglass and M.A.C. eyeshadow Atlantic Blue matte and M.A.C. lipglass with M.A.C. matte lipstick Russian Red. I didn’t mix them together but let them sink in to one another. The eyes are natural to let the lips shine. 

Red – both eyes and lips are covered with the mixture of M.A.C. lipglass and M.A.C. matte lipstick Russian Red. Hair is styled with a straightener to get a light wave and fixed with Sebastian Re-Shaper Brushable Humidity Resistance Strong-Hold hairspray. 

Dark blue eye – I used M.A.C. lipglass mixed with M.A.C. eyeshadow Atlantic Blue matte. To achieve a light shine on the lips I used a bit of M.A.C lipglass mixed with Elizabeth Arden 8-hour cream.

Nude – the skin and the eyes are bare and only the lips have a heavy coat of M.A.C. lipglass. Hair is styled to have a feel of weightlessness that is achieved with a simple use of Sebastian Re-Shaper Brushable Humidity Resistance Strong-Hold hairspray and straighteners. 

The series ended up to be a homage to M.A.C. lipglass and other M.A.C. products with their versatility and the look shaped to be of a handsome geeky it girl. 

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Launch Cover